Wednesday, January 8th—Our
5th Cruise Day—Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.
NOTE: Access to the internet from the ship has become very, very slow and at
times impossible. And it has also become expensive, since we pay for internet
time at sea by the minute. As a result, we will probably not be able to make as
many blog posts as we would like or as often as we would like. We most likely
will “get behind” in our posts when the internet is inaccessible, but we will
do our best to catch up when we can.
After boarding
our ship on Saturday, January 4th, we had 3 full “sea days” before
our first port of call—Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.
Costa Rica
is located between Nicaragua to the north and Panama to the south, and spans
the isthmus—which means it has both an Atlantic (Caribbean) coast and a Pacific
Coast. During the extension of our 2012
World Voyage, we visited Puntarenas, Costa Rica on the Pacific coast—this time,
we were on the Atlantic (Caribbean) side.
We arrived
in Puerto Limon at 7:00 AM, and “all aboard” was at 3:30 PM so we had about 8 ½
hours at this port. Here we chose to take a 4 ½ hour Holland America excursion
tour called “Sloth Sanctuary and Jungle Experience.”
Committing
to an organized tour is a “hit or miss” proposition—some tours are wonderful and
go beyond expectations, and others are disappointing. And unfortunately one
must usually make an excursion choice based only upon a brief book description.
Fortunately, this tour fell into the “wonderful/beyond expectations” category—primarily
due to three reasons: 1. Our tour guide and van driver were excellent! The
guide spoke English very well, and was informative and entertaining while our
van driver was willing to take extra time and stop the van at various locations
when he spotted something of interest. 2.
We were in a small group of only 16 people. And while we weren’t the
only people at the sanctuary (there were perhaps a dozen others), the capacity
of the sanctuary was 200, so we were able to ask questions and interact with
the staff more than usual. 3. The places
we went and the things we saw were very, very, interesting!
Our tour
didn’t begin until 9:30 AM, but we left the ship about an hour early to check
out the port area. Like most ports, there were shopping booths at the base of
the pier, and Pat found some things she thought our grandchildren might like.
We boarded our tour van right at the pier at 9:15 AM, and since everyone was on
time, we departed early.
The drive to
the sanctuary was about 45 minutes, and along the way, we stopped at a roadside
market for some “ladyfinger” bananas—a little larger than a finger—which we all
enjoyed. Later along the way, we stopped alongside the road because our driver
spotted a family of howler monkeys in the trees. Of course we all got out of
the van and began taking photos as fast as we could—even though the monkeys
were high up in the trees and it was hard to get a good shot.
After
arriving at the Sloth Sanctuary, we heard a brief lecture on sloths: today there are 6 species of sloth, two of
which are found in Costa Rica, the two toed sloth (Choloepus hoffmanni) and the
three toed sloth (Bradypus variegates) . (There were once two species of giant
sloths—one in North America and one in South America—which are now extinct.)
After the
lecture, we saw several individuals of each of the two Costa Rican species
close up and learned more about their behavior and the sanctuary. The sanctuary
was founded by a woman, Judy, from Alaska who married a Costa Rican man, Luis
Arroyo, and when they moved to Costa Rica, they began a sanctuary for injured
or orphaned animals which neighbors would bring to them. Eventually they
specialized in sloths, and today they have over 75 sloths they hope to
reintroduce into the wild, and a few that will remain permanently at the
sanctuary for various reasons. Our visit with the sloths ended with a visit to
their “Sloth Nursery” where young orphaned sloths were being nursed back to
health.
After
visiting the sanctuary, we took an hour canoe ride through the jungle on the
Estrella River where we saw very dense vegetation—mainly bamboo and Banana
plants. Also there was a variety of wildlife—including turtles, howler monkeys,
several types of lizards and many, many beautifully colored birds.
After the canoe
trip, we heard a short lecture from our guide on jungle vegetation, and learned
the lore of the achiote or anotto face painting. The pod of the achiote plant
has seeds which—when rubbed with a finger—produce a dark red pigment. This red
pigment, used by the indigenous people, was placed on the cheeks of the tribal
chief, and on the lips of the women. We couldn’t resist trying some of this
face painting, and put some on our cheeks and foreheads (Pat wasn’t excited
about putting it on her lips!) and of course completed the experience with a
photo.
On our
jungle walk, we saw ginger plants and banana plants in full bloom, and the pod
of a cacao plant which our guide cut open to show the chocolate producing flesh
inside.
After our
jungle experience, we had refreshments at the sanctuary lookout where
“Buttercup”—a lively and entertaining three toed sloth--put on a show climbing
all over, around and even on top of a large suspended basket. We had a chance
to chat with the Alaskan woman (the owner/founder) about the history of the
sanctuary, and just before we left, a neighbor brought in a four-day-old two
toed sloth that had fallen from his mother out of a tree. Apparently sloth
mothers will abandon their fallen babies, so the sanctuary was his only chance for
survival—a survival that is now highly likely.
About 1:15 PM,
we were on the road back to Puerto Limon, but along the way, our driver spotted
several sloths in the wild up in trees. Of course, the van stopped and we all
got out snapping photos as fast as we could—even though the sloths were a long
way off and hard to photograph. We also stopped briefly for photos of the
shoreline with Isla Uvita and the ms Amsterdam in the background. (Isla Uvita
is the island where Christopher Columbus was forced to land after a hurricane
had damaged his ships in 1502. He exclaimed that here he had seen “more gold in
two days than he had seen in four years in Spain” and named the place “The Rich
Coast” or “Costa Rica.”
Our tour
ended back at the port area, and afterwards we took a short walk into town to
look around and purchase a few items. But soon it was time to make our way back
to the ship and get aboard before the 3:30 PM deadline.
For dinner
that night, we had Costa Rican specialties, but we didn’t want to stay up too
late because the next day—beginning at 5:00 AM (!)—we would be traversing the
Panama Canal!
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